➹ seoul palace tours: self guided or otherwise?

A visit to one of Seoul's numerous palaces is easily one of the no-brainer itinerary items for a typical tourist in Korea. A seasoned traveler's advice (or an expat's one) would be that a trip to one palace is enough for a 3-5 day stay. So it's key to decide which one to go to, right? There's plenty of information about these palaces on the Official KTO Site as well as on iTour Seoul. Do browse around and pick a palace which best attracts your curiosity and fits into your schedule.


And I mentioned schedule because

1. Most Important: Palaces are closed on specific days and
2. Some of the palaces offer Guided English, Japanese and Chinese tours (free!) on fixed schedules.

I consider myself a pretty much self-guided type of person so I chose the self-guided one on Changdeokgung Palace on my first palace visit. This one is more expensive than the guided tours, I think. You basically get a map at the front office and some audio device which provides you with a short discourse on specific spots in the palace. My audio device was a bit temperamental at that time so I didn't get to maximize its usage. Anyway, I was busy ooh-ing and ahh-ing and taking pictures and painfully navigating with the map to worry about the audio ^^.


So to make the long story short, we got lost. Me and my friend weren't best navigators out there. Plus the heat of that early summer day was a tad bit too much so we had to circle our way back to the gates sooner than we thought we would.

So that's the sad part of doing the self-guided one ~ I just had to call it out immediately haha. On the bright side of things, we did enjoy walking leisurely on the palace grounds. We took our time idling by the intricate doorways (and hiding from the sun at that) and admiring the lush greenery and the huge empty spaces. We sort of pictured the scenes from the historical dramas we watched. We were MOST LIKELY incorrect on where we imagined those scenes to play out but it was fun. It was more of a personal palace experience I suppose. That's how I remember it. Even if we were clueless on the historical details, we still thoroughly appreciated our own tour of the place. And that goes to show how amazing that landmark is.



So while a self-guided tour is completely memorable, I still wanted to try see what a guided tour would be like. So on the following year, I took a guided English tour at Gyeongbokgung, again with friends.


Oh and what a tour geek I was. I found the stories of the tour guide to be absolutely fascinating. I felt like the nerdy kid in school being so attentive and interactive with the guide. So sue me, I was finally enjoying learning things (too late maybe haha). Sure we had to walk fast and keep with the group in order to hear her lectures, and we did have limited time on specific areas so we had to hurriedly do our picture taking ~ but I think it was well worth it. The palace was huge (well, same with Changdeokgung) so we never would have visited all the stops on the tour if we were just walking around on our own. Since we were supposed to follow the guide, we didn't really notice how far we've walked from the entrance already. And soon enough, an hour (i think) has already lapsed. Time sure flies when you have somewhere to go ^^.

So that's that. It was great to experience both the self-guided and the guided tours. If I had to do it again, I would have done the guided one on my first trip and the self-guided for the 2nd ... just so I would have a greater appreciation of the palaces (added to my personal tour of the place of course).


Here's a crude compilation of some palace schedules and admission fees. I hope it helps you pick which one you should visit on your Seoul trip. Do let me know if anything here is helpful. Enjoy!

Gyeongbokgung Palace 경복궁 Seoul, Jongno-gu, 1 Sejong-no http://www.royalpalace.go.kr/	9AM to 5PM daily except Tuesdays (Nov-Feb) 9AM to 6PM daily except Tuesdays (Mar-Oct) Until 7PM on Saturdays, Sundays and National Holidays (May-Aug) Admission: KRW 3,000 Interpretation Services In front of information center, Hongryemun Gate (main gate) * English: 11:00, 13:30, 15:30 * Japanese: 9:30, 10:30, 13:00, 15:00 * Chinese: 10:00, 12:30, 14:30
Deoksugung Palace 덕수궁 Seoul, Jung-gu, 5-1 Jeong-dong http://www.deoksugung.go.kr/	9AM to 7PM except Mondays (Mar-Oct) 9AM to 5PM except Mondays (Nov-Feb) Admission: KRW 1,000
Changdeokgung Palace 창덕궁 Seoul, Jongno-gu, 2-71 Waryong-dong http://www.cdg.go.kr/main/main.htm	Non-guided Tour every Thursday at KRW 15,000* Guided English tours (1 hour and 20 minutes) at 11:30 AM, 1:30 PM and 3:30 PM except Mondays
Changgyeonggung Palace 창경궁 Seoul, Jongno-gu, 2-1 Waryong-dong	9AM to 5PM weekdays except Tuesdays; 9AM to 6PM weekends & holidays (Mar-Oct) 9AM to 4:30PM alldays except Tuesdays (Nov-Jan) Admission: KRW 1,000
Gyeonghuigung Palace 경희궁 Seoul, Jongno-gu, Sinmunno 2-ga, 1 bunji	9AM to 6PM except Mondays (Mar-Oct) 9AM to 5PM except Mondays (Nov-Feb) Admission: Free
Dongnimmun Seoul, Seodaemun-gu, Hyeonjeo-dong, 945-beonji	Open 24 hrs Admission: Free
Jongmyo Royal Shrine Seoul, Jongno-gu, 1-2 Hunjeong-dong http://jm.cha.go.kr/	9AM to 6PM/7PM (weekends & holidays) except Tuesdays Admission: KRW 1,000

➹ my 한식 100

Taken from FatManSeoul's List of must-try Korean food. Circa 2008 so there would be some newer trends on Korean food now that would count as MUST TRY's. If I find a 2011 edition of this, I'll post it up.

Highlighted are those I've had ... In purple are those I do want to try somehow, someday. Those untouched are unappealing or politically incorrect for me (nyaha ... squeamish on anything raw --.--) Which one is your favorite?

All pictures are mine! ^^ Credits to my insatiable craving for korean food all year round.

1. Myeolchi Bokkeum (Stir-fried Anchovies) 멸치볶음
2. Samgyetang (Ginseng Chicken Soup) 삼계탕


3. Bulgogi (Grilled Marinated Beef) 불고기
4. BulDalk (Burn-your-pants-off Spicy Grilled Chicken) 불닭
5. DalkBal (Spicy Chicken Feet) 닭발
6. Korean Fried Chicken 치킨


7. Dalk Galbi (Stir-fried Marinated Chicken and Veggies) 닭갈비 
8. San Nakji, chopped (Semi-live Baby Octopus) 산낙지
9. San Nakji, whole (Live Octopus)
10. Sundubu Jjigae (Soft Tofu Stew) 순두부 찌게
11. Juk (Rice Porridge) 죽
12. Galbi (Grilled Short Ribs) (소)갈비
13. Galbitang (Short Rib Soup) 갈비탕
14. Shinseollo (Fancy Hot Pot) 신선로
15. Gobchang Gui (Grilled Beef Intestines) 곱장구이
16. Seng Gan (Raw Beef Liver) 생간
17. Galbi Jjim (Stewed Ribs) 갈비찜
18. Bossam (Steamed Marinated Pork with Lettuce Wraps) 보쌈
19. Japchae (Clear Noodles Stir-fried with Pork and Vegetables) 찹재
20. Jaeyuk Bokkeum (Spicy Stir-fried Pork) 재육볶음
21. Kimchi Jjim (Stewed Kimchi with Tofu)깁치찜
22. Ddong Jip (Chicken Gizzards)똥집
23. Odeng/Eomuk (Street-side Fish Noodles) 어댕/어묵
24. Hoddeok (Stuffed Street-side Pastries) 호떡
25. GeiJang (Raw Fermented Crabs) 게장
26. Hongeo (Fermented Skate) 홍어
27. Gochujang Samgyeopsal (Grilled Pork Belly Smothered in Red Pepper Paste) 고추장 삼겹살
28. Lotteria’s Shrimp Burger

29. Sae-u Kang (Shrimp Flavored “Fries”) 새우깡
30. Doenjang Jjigae (Fermented Bean Paste Stew) 됀장찌게
31. Cheonggukjang (Stinky Fermented Bean Paste Stew) 정국장
32. Boshintang (Dog Soup) 보신탕
33. Seonji Haejangguk (Hangover Stew with Clotted Cow Blood) 선지 해장국
34. Ddeokbokki (Chewy Rice Cakes in Spicy Sauce) 떡볶이
35. YukHui (Raw Beef Salad) 육희
36. MiyeokGuk (Seaweed Soup) 미역국
37. Mae-eunTang (Spicy Fish Soup) 매운탕
38. Nakji Bokkeum (Stir-fried Baby Octopus) 낙지볶음
39. Ojingeo (Cuttlefish) (마른) 오징어
40. Beondaeggi (Silkworm Larvae) 번대기
41. Golbaenggi (Sea Snails) 골뱅이
42. Jangeo Gui (Grilled Eel) 장어구이
43. Jaratang (Turtle Soup) 자라탕
44. Bogeo (Blowfish) 복어
45. Sae-u Sogeum Gui (Salt Grilled Shrimp) 새우소금 구이
46. Deodeok Root 더덕
47. BindaeDdeok (Mung Bean Pancake) 빈대떡
48. Pajeon (Green Onion Pancake) 바전

49. Bibimbap (Mixed Rice and Vegetables) 비빔밥
50. Boribap (Mixed Barley Rice and Vegetables) 보리밥
51. Marinated Garlic (마늘장아찌?)
52. Patbingsu (Shaved Ice and Red Bean Treat) 팥빙수
53. Dotorimok (Acorn Jelly) 도토리목
54. Naengmyeon (Chilled Noodles) 냉면
55. Makkoli/Dongdongju (Rice Beer) 막거리/ 동동주
56. Bokbunja (Raspberry Wine) 복분자
57. Soju (Rice Whiskey) 소주
58. Andong Soju (Strong Rice Whiskey from the Andong Region) 안동소주
59. Jogae Gui (Grilled Shellfish) 조개구이
60. Haepari (Jellyfish) 해바리
61. Gyeran Jjim (Steamed Egg) 계란찜
62. Corn Ice Cream
63. Dolsot Bibimbap (Mixed Rice and Vegetables in a Sizzling Stone Pot) 돌솥비빔밥

64. Mandu (Stuffed Dumplings) 만두
65. Ddeokguk (Chewy Rice Cake Soup) 떡국
66. Songpyeon (Stuffed Chewy Rice Cakes) 송편
67. Hot Bar (Fried Fish Batter Street Food) 헛바
68. Shikhye (Sweet Rice Punch) 식혜
69. Any product with Green Tea in it 녹차맛

70. Gujeolpan (Nine-section Dish) 구절반
71. Yogurt Soju Cocktail
72. Baechu Kimchi (Cabbage Kimchi) 배추김치
73. Any Kimchi that’s over 3 years old
74. Baek Kimchi (White Cabbage Kimchi) 백김치
75. Shake-’em-up Dosirak
76. Mul Kimchi (Water Kimchi) 물김치
77. Oi Sobagi (Stuffed Cucumber Kimchi) 오이소바기
78. Ggakdugi (Cubed Radish Kimchi) 깍두기
79. Sae-u Jeot (Salted Tiny Shrimp) 새우젓
80. Myeongran Jeot (Salted Pollack Roe) 명란젓
81. Changran Jeot (Salted Pollack Guts)장란젓
82. Ssamjang (Mixed Soybean and Pepper Paste) 쌈장
83. Kalguksu (Hand-cut Noodle Soup) 갈국수

84. Ramyeon (Ramen Noodles) in a Tin Pot 라면
85. Entire Hui Meal (Korean style Sashimi) 회
86. Gimbap (Seaweed Rice Rolls) 김밥

87. Jokbal (Pigs Feet) 족발
88. Sundae (Blood and Noodle Sausage) 순대
89. Yeot (Traditional Korean Candy) 엿
90. Naengi (Shepherd’s Purse) 냉이
91. Kimchi Jjigae (Kimchi Stew) 김치찌게

92. Budae Jjigae (“Army Base” Stew, traditionally including hot dogs and Spam) 부대지게
93. Agu Jjim (Stewed Monkfish) 아구찜
94. Haemultang (Seafood Soup) 해물탕
95. Nurungji (Hot Water Mixed with Rice Scrapings in a Stone Pot) 누릉지
96. Sujebi (Rustic Dumpling Soup) 수재비
97. Janchi Guksu (Thin Noodles in a Seaweed Broth with Condiments) 잔치국수
98. BungeoBbang (Goldfish-shaped Stuffed Pastry) 봉어빵
99. Raw Ginseng or anything with Ginseng in it 인삼
100. MakHui (Chilled Sashimi Soup) 막희

➹ wanted: perfect accommodations part III

It's been 2 years since my last obsessive post on finding the perfect accommodations in Seoul. And though I did visit Seoul last year, and i did stay at a really nice and affordable place, I have to say that my quest is still not over. Let me  elaborate for a second.

So after a less-than-ideal choice for a home away from home on my vacation last May '09, I pledged not to select from hostels anymore. No hard feelings, I just wanted to try something else on my next stay. And gracious goodness, did I find a real gem in Yeouido. Hotel Kobos is quite a treasure find with the following perks:
[+] large spacious rooms with
[+] large spacious baths
[+] affordable rates at KRW80,00 -  KRW99,000 (breakfast included)
[+] 5-minute walk from the sparkly new National Assembly subway station
[+] 5-minute walk from the Limousine Bus Stop to and fro Incheon Airport
[+] and of course, FREE COMPUTER WITH HI-SPEED INTERNET IN ALL ROOMS

I would HIGHLY recommend this hotel for those with a preference to reside in the Yeouido area. Sadly, we were there during summer so we didn't experience the spring festival which the area is quite famous for. How awesome would it be to be lightly showered by cherry blossoms while strolling leisurely on your way back to the hotel, huh? Well, next time ...

We stayed at Kobos for about 10 days, and of course staying that long in a place would give anyone some minor pet peeves. It's not 5-☆ and we're not snobs haha but just you know, we might have stayed a bit too long (maybe):
[-] the corridors are extremely humid! no real reason why anyone would hang out on the corridors, right? except if your roommate is in the bathroom when you happen to knock on your door ~ and that's only because
[-] they only give 2 keys (or just 1, i really forgot). but for sure, we had less keys than we had beds in the room.
[-] the breakfast area (though so nice and cozy and all that) was a tad bit small and there were more guests than seats. so sometimes we weren't done eating yet but we had to hurry up because there are people waiting for us to leave the tables. and lastly
[-] (super minor) small elevators. if you're a bit claustrophobic, better just take the stairs (though we didn't try that).

So yeah, those were just silly pet peeves. I would definitely return to this hotel but only if I had some specific business on the Yeouido area. Next time, I'd like to stay closer to downtown Seoul where the shopping districts are. And it's because last summer, after we spent the entire day walking around Myeongdong and Hongdae and Gwanghwamun it was such a challenge to travel back to Yeouido and creep into our nice hotel beds. 'Twas a bit too far for us shopaholics.

So indeed, back to square 1 for the 2011 choice. I don't think I've researched on this many hotels/hostels on a single country before. Everytime I find a prospective place, I either (a) unearth a less-than-ideal review on it or (b) find a possible better prospect. And so I tab from window to window on a severely disorganized hunt to find *the* accommodation for my next trip.

➹ yes man @ HBO

Originally written on Mar 11, '10 7:30 AM (salvaged from dying blog)

Jim Carrey learns and speaks a little Korean in the movie. That's all I needed to know ^^.

His pronunciation was totally awkward. Ah, but it was quite adorable. I've read a few unpleasant reactions on how the Korean language and culture were depicted in the movie though. I suppose it would be similar to me taking that slightest tiniest bit of offense when the Philippines is pictured as a backward island farmland. Also similar to how I figuratively roll my eyes in a WTH reaction when people almost can't believe how good we speak English. Oh well.

On the flipside, I can imagine how other Koreans might be amazed at Carrey's efforts to speak the language. There's a lot of them who are pleasantly amused at the most basic 한글 expressions. At least that's how people explained why the 할아버지's were so persistent on conversing with us on our Seoul trip last year. Even if all I can say was "미안해요" meaning "sorry". I really should have used "죄송합니다 ..."

Anyway, the 한글 선생님 told Carrey "잘했어요" meaning good work. Meanwhile, Carrey's endearing conversation with the Korean saleslady at the bridal shop was promptly subtitled ... except perhaps on the Soo-Mi 화이팅 part? But it works out ok.



Cuteness ^^.

The movie was still entertaining, regardless of the plenty discouraging reviews I saw hehe ^^. I thought the terrorist plot was just funny! Am I evil that the communist NK is humorous for me? Ah, well ... overanalyzing just makes me old.

Oh and by the way, HOLLYWOOD BOWL? Romantic eh? Oooh, I remember how much I researched about that place last May 2008... Oooh... -->

And oh! oh! "Let's be scared together" was an "awwwwwwwww"-moment for me ^^.

➹ 오늘의 생생 한국어

Originally written on Jul 2, '09 08:50 PM (salvaged from dying other blog)

[!!!]
Learning Hangul is … omo … painfully challenging.

I felt a small sense of pride when I was able to briefly converse with a few locals on our last trip to Seoul. If for anything, I was reassured that my pronounciations were half decent since they were somehow able to understand my struggling babbles. But good gracious, I used up all the korean I know on those few exchanges mostly during bargaining or giving taxi directions! I have got so much ~ too much to learn.

It makes me sad to think that my vocabulary is still embarrassingly limited. There’s still so very little that I get from context clues though I still enjoy watching sj shows without subs. Haha, and I can only sing slow songs on Norebang since my internal processor can’t catch up with the fast song lyrics just yet! Aish…

Ah, but how I enjoy learning these Hangul songs. I’ve graduated from the romanized lyrics months ago (nyaha, proud feat). But I still need the English translations to belt out correct emotions for each song. And ooh, the rapping is so cool. One day, I’ll need to master some more rap verses~

The first rap verse I had down:
그댄 나의 전부
눈부시게 아름다운 나의 신부
신이 주신 선물
행복한가요
그대의 까만 눈에서
눈물이 흐르죠
까만 머리 파뿌리 될 때까지도
나의 사랑 나의 그대
사랑할 것을 나 맹세할게요

The second was:
언제나 어디서나
날 따라다니는
이 스포트라이트
어딜가다 쫓아오지
식당 길거리 카페 나이트
도대체 얼마나 나이 들어야
이놈의 인기는 식으려 들지 원
섹시한 내 눈을 고소영
아름다운 내 다린 좀 하지원
어쩌면 좋아
모두 나를 좋아하는것 같애 ~

I seriously need to figure out an effective way to learn this. I thought I’d get by with just aimlessly surfing the net and maybe fixing my cable channel steadily at Arirang! Ah, but apparently, I still have to try and lead a normal life (i.e. family, friends, work) and I can’t dedicate all my time to learning Hangul hehe. And so I’m stuck! I want to be composing blog entries in Hangul right now … but alas … OTL